Sew That Tote for Sew Crazy Indiana State Shop Hop Kits!

Sew That Crazy Tote

a.k.a. the #sewthatcrazytote

Finished Size: Approximately 12-1/2” W x 12” T x 6-1/2” D

Skill Level: Beginner

Material Requirements

• Exterior Feature – 1/2 Yard 
• Exterior Contrast – 1 Yard  
• Lining Fabric – 1/2 Yard 
• Fusible Woven Interfacing – 4 yds at 20” w
• Fusible Fleece or batting – 5/8 yd at 45” w 

Cutting Chart

Piece		Measurements	Exterior	Contrast	Lining	Interfacing	Stabilizer
1	Exterior Top	20-1/2” w x 5” h	[2]			[2]	[2] - 19-1/4” w x 4-3/8” h
2	Exterior Middle	20-1/2” w x 8” h		[2]		[2]	[2] - 19-1/4” w x 6-3/4” h
3	Exterior Bottom	20-1/2” w x 5” h		[2]		[2]	[2] - 19-1/4” w x 3-3/4” h
4	Pocket Exterior	20-1/2” w x 8” h	[2]			[2]	[2] - 19-1/4” w x 7-1/4” h
5	Pocket Lining	20-1/2” w x 9” h		[2]		[2]
6	Straps	WOF x 5” h		[2]		[2]	[2] - WOF x 1-1/8” h
7	Lining	20-1/2” w x 16” h				[2]
8	Binding	WOF x 2” h		[1]	[1]

General Instructions

• Seam Allowance [SA] is 1/2” unless stated otherwise.
• My stitch length is 2.5 with topstitching at 3.5. Increase to 3.0 stitch length with topstitching at 4.5 for cork/vinyl.

Prep Work

1. First, let’s attach the interfacing to the quilt cotton. I prefer block fusing before precise cutting my pieces to avoid any issues with shrinkage. To do this, cut approximate blocks or strips of interfacing and fuse them to the cotton fabrics. Then, cut the precise measurements you need. 

2. Next, let’s attach the stabilizer (I prefer fusible fleece, but you can also baste or quilt your preferred batting) on all applicable pieces. My goal is to reduce bulk in the joining seams. These measurements are very important to keep the seam allowances clear where possible.

a. Exterior Top & Pocket Exterior – Draw lines along both sides and the bottom that are 5/8” from the edge. Center the stabilizer within this box and attach. Note: Exterior Top should be flush with the top edge of the stabilizer, Pocket Exterior should have about a 1/8” gap.

 

b. Exterior Middle & Exterior Bottom – Draw lines along all 4 sides that are 5/8” from the edge. Center the stabilizer within this box and attach.

 

c. Straps – Draw 1 line at 1-1/4” and another at 2-1/2” down the length of the strap. Center the stabilizer between the 2 lines and attach.

3. Mark or notch the center of the top and bottom edges of pieces 1-6.

4. Take the Exterior binding, fold in half Wrong Sides Together [WST] down the long edges and press. Open, then fold each edge to the center crease and press. Now, fold this in half so the raw edges are enclosed in the center and press. Repeat these steps for the Lining binding piece.

Now, let’s sew that tote!

1. Take 1 Strap piece, fold in half WST down the long edges and press. Open, and re-fold each edge to the center crease and press. Now, fold this in half so the raw edges are enclosed in the center and press. Your strap piece should now measure 1-1/4” x WOF. Topstitch down both long sides of the strap with a 1/8” SA (optionally, topstitch again at 3/8” for additional accent). Repeat for the 2nd strap piece and set both aside. 

 

2. Align the bottom edge of the Exterior Top along the top of the Exterior Bottom pieces right sides together [RST] and sew with a 1/2” SA. Press the seam open. Repeat for the 2nd set of pieces and set both Main Exterior units aside.

 

3. Align the top edge of the Pocket Exterior and Pocket Lining pieces RST and sew with a 1/2” SA. Press the seam towards the Pocket Lining. Flip the Pocket Lining over so that it’s WST with the Pocket Exterior. Line up the bottom edges and press so the Pocket Lining creates a pop of color on the outside of the unit. Topstitch 1/8” from the seam and again at 1/8” from the edge. Baste the remaining 3 sides. Repeat for the 2nd set of pieces and set both Pocket units aside.  

 

4. Place 1 of the Main Exterior units Right Side up [RSU] and align the bottom of the Pocket unit to the bottom of the Main Exterior so the raw edges match along the bottom and both sides. Baste stitch down the side, across the bottom, and up the other side with 1/4” SA. Repeat for the 2nd Main Exterior unit.

5. Place 1 of the Main Exterior units RSU, measure over 2-3/4” to the left and right of the center and place a mark along the bottom edge. Using pins or an erasable marking tool, place 2 more lines that are 1” and 2” up from the top of the folded Pocket edge. Take 1 Strap and line the end up so that the inside edge is on the left 2-3/4” mark and the raw edges line up. Use pins or fusible tape to secure the strap flat against the Main Exterior up to the 2” mark. 

Then, carry the strap over to the right 2-3/4” mark and down to the bottom raw edge without twisting. Starting at the bottom left edge of the strap, topstitch the strap in place with a 1/8” SA up to the 2” mark. Then, using the 1” and 2” marks, stitch a box with an X before continuing to topstitch down the right edge of the strap with a 1/8” SA. Repeat this step for the right side of the strap. Repeat for the 2nd Main Panel and Strap. 

 

6. Align the bottom edge of the Main Exterior and the top of the Exterior Bottom piece RST and sew with a 1/2” SA. Press the seam toward the Bottom. Repeat for the 2nd set of Main Exterior and Exterior Bottom pieces.

7. Place both Main Exterior units RST and sew along the bottom edge with a 1/2" SA. Press the SA open. Repeat for the Lining pieces. Now lay the Main Exterior RSD and place the Lining unit RSU so they are both WST with the bottom seams matching up. To keep this seam perfectly lined up, I like to use a fusible web like a sew-able Heat n Bond strip. Topstitch along both sides of the seam line with 1/8”. 

Now, pin around all edges and baste around all 4 edges with 1/4” SA. Also, topstitch along the Exterior Bottom seam to keep that seam allowance flat. 

8. Fold the bag RST and pinch the bottom seam flat. Add a clip to keep this fold tight. Now, take the front panel and fold it back towards the clipped seam along the SA between the Pocket and Bottom seam. Repeat for the 2nd side. From the side this will look a bit like a “W”. Clip all the way up each side making sure the seams for the Bottom and Pocket match up. Sew down both sides of the bag with a 3/8” SA and again with a 1/2” SA. 

9. Open the Lining Binding up and line up the long side along the side seam with fabrics RST. Fold the end near the bottom of the bag to the other side by about 1/2”. Clip the binding in place up towards the top of the bag. Trim the binding flush with the top of the bag and sew along this with a 3/8-1/2” SA. Now, fold the raw edge of the binding against the raw edge of the SA. TIP: Taper this fold as you move up the bag to make the binding as snug as possible. At the top, my binding raw edge was against the stitches, not against the raw edges of the bag. 

Now, push the folded edge over the SA towards the other side making sure all raw edges are covered. Topstitch with a 1/8” SA to secure. Repeat for the other side.  

10. Take the Exterior Binding and fold one end over 1/2”. Line this fold up with one of the side seams and clip it all the way around the top exterior edge. Starting at the folded end, stitch at 1/2” SA to attach the binding. Once you get close to the beginning again, overlap the first end with the other for about 1” and secure with some backstitching. Now, fold the other raw edge of the binding against the raw edge of the top of the bag. Then, push the folded edge over the top towards the lining making sure the binding covers the previous stitches by about 1/8”. Topstitch 1/8” from the seam and again at 1/8” from the edge. 

     

Enjoy your new tote bag!

Great for beaches, pools, picnics, and everyday use! 

Perfect for quick, fun gifts too!  

Thanks for stitching with the Flamazing Crew at 

Sew Crazy, Columbus IN